Frequently Asked Questions

What do the abbreviations mean in a book Description?

The abbreviations used in our book descriptions are listed on this page. Consistent use of the proper terms by
book sellers make the process of describing a book a simple, accurate way to communicate.

4to - 9 3/4" to 12" tall

8vo - 7 3/4" to 9 3/4"

12mo - 6 3/4" to 7 3/4"

16mo - 5 3/4" to 6 3/4"

24mo - 5 to 5 3/4"

32mo - 4 to 5" tall

48mo - 3 to 4" tall

64mo - a book up to 3" tall

Folio - up to 15" tall

Elephant Folio - up to 23" tall

Atlas Folio - up to 25" tall

Double Elephant Folio - up to 50" tall

aeg-all edges gilt

bce-book club edition

bds-boards

dec-decorated

dj-dust jacket

ed-editor, edited

ep-endpapers

ffep-first free endpaper

Ilus-illustrated

insc-inscribed

ltd-limited edition

nd-no date

no, nos, #-number

op-out of print

orig-original

pb-paperback

pc-price clipped

pl,pls-plate,plates

pos-prior owner's signature

pref-preface

pub-publisher

rem-remainder

ser-series

teg-top edge gilt

tp-title page

unpag-unpaginated

vol-volume

What does condition really mean?

Trastevere Books attempts to describe all of its books accurately. The various abbreviations will tell you what condition
the book and the dust jacket are in at the time of sale. Most books are either New, in Fine, Very Good, or Good condition. Abbreviations will appear as N/N, F/F, VG/G, G/F, etc. The first letter indicates the condition of the book, the second the dust jacket.

(N) New: This designation is used only when the book is in the same perfect condition as when published. There must be no defects whatsoever. No marks, library stamps, bumping, etc.

(F) Fine: All books described as fine are almost like new, but not quite as crisp. There must be no defects. If there are any jacket defects, these must be noted.

(VG) Very Good: Shows some small signs of wear, but no tears to the binding or pages. All defects must be noted.

(G) Good: The average worn book that has all the pages present. All defects must be described in detail.

Fair condition is one that will be applied to difficult to find/ antiquarian books that are worn, but have complete text pages, but may lack endpapers, half-title pages, etc. The binding may be worn. We rarely list books in this condition, but will consider including a very difficult to find book in our inventory. All defects noted.

Poor condition. Describes a book that is worn to the point that it is only valuable as a reading copy. We very rarely offer a book in this condition, and unless the book is extremely difficult to find (in any condition), they will not be sold on this site.

What is a first edition?

A true first edition is copy from the first printing of the first edition. It is often difficult to determine whether a book is actually a true first; however, there are printed resources that help in this determination.

To a publisher, a first edition may be any copy of a title before substanial revisions were made.

So, you ask, how can you tell if you are holding an actual first, or merely an early printing of the title? The answer is not simple. It is best to buy true first editions from reputable book sellers who know their stock. If you are book hunting and would like to identify your book find, you can consult a number of references for assistance. One useful title is: "A Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions," sixth revised edition, compiled by Bill McBride. This can be purchased at: http://www.mcbridepublisher.com

Does a Dust Jacket Increase the Value of the Book?

What are Some Printed Resources for Book Collectors?

The Care of Fine Books

Books are made of materials that require special care. Paper, leather and vellum are all fragile. Paper is especially susceptible to damage, and although it can last for centuries if properly made and cared for, it is highly important to protect it from damage by environmental conditions, by insects, and by mishandling.

HUMIDITY

The chief danger of excessive humidity is the growth of mold. Since mold cannot grow unless the humidity exceeds seventy percent, preventive measures must include keeping the humidity below that level. The ideal is 50%. Air conditioning and dehumidifiers are the answer to moist climates and damp buildings.

FOXING

Mold growth in paper often shows up as dull rusty patches that discolor the sheet. This is called "foxing" and may be caused the the chemical action of mold on metallic salts often present in paper. Mold feeds easily on sizing and paper fibers and thereby weakens the sheet. Foxing is the usual result of prolonged, high atmospheric humidity, but if water itself seeps into the book, rampant proliferation of mold may occur. First aid treatment is to remove the book to a dry environment. Expose to sunlight for about one hour to kill the mold or, preferably, place in a closed container with some crystals of Thymol, a fungicide, for two or three days. Thymol may be found online at suppliers of book repair/making and restorations supples. Order online from: Talas or Conservation Materials, Ltd.

LIGHT

Of all the external forces that can affect paper, light is often the most ignored. Avoid placing bookshelves or glass-fronted bookscses on a wall directly opposite windows. Translucent curtains, louvered blinds, or anti UV film applied to window glass can all help. Flourescent bulbs are a potential source of UV light and should be covered with cylindrical plastic sleeves. None of these preventatives will stop all light damage, however.

HEAT

High temperatures accelerate the deterioration of paper and leather. Do not place books near radiators, heating vents, or near the fireplace.

AIR POLLUTION

A polluted atmosphere is one of the dangers that threaten the longevity of paper. The most harmful contaminant is sulphur dioxide, a gas produced by combustion of fossil fules like coal and oil. Sulphur dioxide attacks paper, cardboard and leather, causing discoloration, embrittlement and eventual disintegration of paper fibers. Air conditioning is the best defense.

LEATHER

Leather has been a staple of the bookbinding trade. These bindings must be cared for, however, and although there is no substitute for professional help, a few simple products can help preserve your collection. Leather dressing is the easiest product to use, and proper application will help clean and make most leather bindings more supple. Applying a gel leather dressing with a lint free cloth can work wonders on an old book. Acidic substances which attack and destroy leather bookbindings (in polluted air) can be neutralized by applying a solution of potassium lactate, which can be purchased from conservation materials suppliers, such as Talas.

INSECTS

The most common insects that threaten paper are silverfish, termites, cockroaches and woodworms. Silverfish are silvery insects with a three tail-like appendage. They are often discovered when books are picked up or suddenly moved. They prefer warm damp spaces. Termites and woodworms will eat anything made of cellulose. Their winding, branching tunnels will cause severe damage to book covers. Cockroaches inhabit dark, warm, damp places and usually appear during the night. They cause damage to paper, parchment, leather, fabrics and glues. Use of insecticides is nessary to rid books of these pests.

HANDLING

Use clean hands when handling books. Never stack them; instead, place the books on shelves, being careful not to overcrowd. When removing a title from the shelf, never pull from the top of the spine. Instead, lift the book out carefully by grasping the entire book from the back, and then support it with both hands.